boat insurance

Welcome to The Boaters’ Handbook

This gives you all the boating basics - the essential knowledge and techniques you need to make sure you enjoy yourselves and stay safe. Reading it before setting off wil help you spot the risks yourself, and help you take simple action to avoid problems. If you do run into difficulties, this understanding will help you get out of trouble quickly and safely.

The Boaters' Handbook is designed for newcomers to boating, but we hope it will also be a handy reminder for more experienced boaters.

In part one, we take you through the nitty-gritty of handling your boat.

And in part two, you'll find important safety rules to help you keep out of trouble. It's vital stuff. So please - for your own safety - read through carefully.

Part three gives you the basic rules of the road,

and part four is all about respecting the environment, the wildlife and other waterways users.

Read this handbook before you set off, and keep it nearby for reference. Of course, you won't become an expert overnight just by reading a book - and it's impossible to cover every aspect of boating, every type of boat and every eventuality.

Short courses in boat handling are an excellent investment. You'll find details of these and sources of local information specific to the waterways at the back of the book.

If you're hiring your boat, the operator will give you instructions. Pay close attention - and don't cast off until you feel confident!

Who’s in charge?

One of the great things about boating is that everyone can muck in together. But at least one person needs to know the boat-handling basics and to understand the safety guidelines.

So, once you've chosen a 'skipper', it'll be his or her job to make sure your crew and passengers have all the information they need to stay safe.

Good boating takes teamwork. So you need competent crew who know how to handle the boat and how to stop the engine, and who can help with mooring, moving through locks, navigation and so on. As well as knowing the procedures, your crew should be aware of the safety risks in each situation and how to avoid them. It's also a wise precaution to have a stand-in skipper in case you become ill.

Passengers who aren't going to be helping with any of the work still need to read and understand the basic safety rules - you'll find a handy safety checklist at the back of this handbook. Please make sure your passengers read it.

These symbols alert you to the most important safety messages. You'll find them at the start of each part of the Boat-Handling section.
Read the Boating Safety section thoroughly for full information on the risks and how to avoid them.

Before setting off

Before you set off, take a few simple tips for trouble-free boating.

Check your boat's in good condition and meets Boat Safety Scheme standards (see 'Training' within 'Further Information')
Make sure you and your crew know how to handle the boat - and that you know how to handle it on the waterway you're using
Get local information from the navigation authority before going onto unfamiliar waterways. On rivers, get information on stream conditions and any tides
Plan your cruise and allow enough time to complete it without rushing
It's not a good idea to cruise in the dark or when visibility's bad - if you do, take extra care
Make sure you've got a tank of clean water
And remember - alcohol impairs your judgement and makes accidents more likely

Equipment checklist

Make sure you know where to find these things:

Lifebuoy, lifeline (if supplied), lifejackets or buoyancy aids
Anchor - for rivers - the rope and chain together should be at least six times as long as the deepest part of the river
Fire extinguisher and fire blanket
Emergency shut-offs for battery, gas and fuel
Bilge pump
Emergency light
Mooring ropes - long enough to stretch from your boat to the bollard and back, even when you're in a deep lock
Mooring stakes and hammer
Horn
First aid kit
Boat pole or hook
Gangplank
Windlass (see 'Locks' in 'Boat Handling')
Boating jargon

Back = stern
Front = bow
Left = port
Right = starboard

Start the engine and keep it in neutral until you're ready to move off. Untie the front and back mooring ropes from the bank, but leave them tied to the boat, coiled and ready for use. On rivers, untie the downstream rope first. Make sure your ropes can't trail in the water and get caught in the propeller. If you're using mooring stakes, don't forget to stow those and the hammer too.

Push the boat away from the bank so you can make a clean get away, with your propeller in deep water. In shallow water, push the back of the boat out, then reverse away until there's room to straighten up.

When the boat's straight, go into forward gear and accelerate gently to cruising speed.

On all waterways, you drive on the right. In practice, on most
canals, you'll keep to the centre of the channel - it's shallow near the edges - unless there's another boat coming towards you. You should slow down when passing anglers or moored boats to avoid rocking them about.

Boats come in different sizes, shapes and materials - and they all behave differently. Before you set off, spend some time getting to know your boat.

Check the weedhatch on narrowboats
Make sure your propeller is clear of debris, but take care. Turn the engine off and take the key out of the ignition. Wear gloves if you can. Always screw the lid back securely.

Steering a boat with a wheel is like steering a car, but it's more difficult to judge where your wheel should be for going straight ahead. Get to know the feel of the wheel and the rudder position before you set off.

Using a tiller to steer is simple - as long as you remember that pushing to the right will make the boat head left and vice versa.

Your boat pivots from a point about halfway along its length. That means you need to watch out for the front and the back. If you line up the front only and then try to turn into a narrow gap - a bridge or lock, for example - you risk hitting the side with the back of your boat.

Steering with a tiller

You can't steer unless your boat is in gear. Remember - no gear,
no steer

Because boats don't have brakes, you need to give yourself plenty of time to stop - especially when travelling downstream. Ease off the throttle, move into neutral and then use short bursts in reverse gear to slow down and come to a final halt. Remember that it's more difficult to steer when you're in reverse gear.

Every skipper goes aground at some point - it's not a disaster.
Don't try to force your way over the obstacle or you'll find yourself even more stuck. Instead, use reverse gear to back away into deeper water.

If you're firmly stuck - or if the water's too shallow for the propeller - use your crew's weight to tilt the boat by moving them to the side of the boat that's still floating. Now use the pole to push off. Remember, though, you need to push against a solid object or the bed of the waterway - if you put the pole straight down and try to use it as a lever, it'll either break or you'll fall in. And keep the top of the pole away from your face and body, in case it slips suddenly.

Special safety tips

Stand inside the hatch on a traditional narrowboat - and watch out for the swing of the tiller
Always be aware of what’s happening around you - on the boat, in the water and on the banks
Don’t let passengers stand or sit in the way of the tiller
Think ahead and make sure you’re lined up for bridge and lock entrances well in advance

Slow down almost to a stop and carry out all your manoeuvres as slowly as possible.

Stop short of where you want to moor with your boat straight and in deep water. Move forward very slowly, pointing the front of the boat towards the bank, then use reverse to stop the boat just before the front hits the bank. Put the engine into neutral.

On rivers, you should always moor with the front of your boat facing upstream or into a very strong wind. So, if you're heading downstream, you'll need to pass the mooring and turn your boat around. Allow for the fact that the water level may rise or fall by as much as 3ft (1m). If it's a tidal river, you should always moor facing the tide - and avoid mooring to the bank overnight.

Your crew should step ashore - not jump. They can either carry the ropes with them - making sure there's plenty of slack and that one end is fixed to the boat - or you can pass them the ropes once they're on land.

To keep your boat secure, you need to tie it to the bank with a rope from both the front and the back. On rivers, you should fix your upstream rope first.

Many mooring sites have bollards or rings to tie up to - choose ones a short distance beyond the front and the back of your boat. Run your ropes at about 45º from your boat, loop them back onto the boat and tie securely, but not too tightly.
To stop your boat moving backwards and forwards in flowing water, you can use 'springs' - see below right.

If there aren't any bollards or rings, use your mooring stakes, but check the stability of the bank and watch out for signs of underground pipes or cables before you start hammering. Knock them in to about half their length and make sure they're firm. Mark them with a piece of light-coloured cloth or a white carrier bag so that walkers can see them clearly, and don't tie your ropes across the towpath.

Leave a little slack in your ropes - that's especially important on tidal waterways or rivers. If the ropes are too tight and the water level drops, your boat could be left hanging from the bank.

Remember that your anchor should be used if you need added security
or extra help in a strong stream or tide - and you should still use mooring ropes.

Safety tips

Make sure you know how to use your ropes properly. Keep them coiled, free of knots - and don’t drop them in the water.
Three useful knots

Locking hitch

Round turn and two half hitches Quick release clove hitch

Can I moor here?

Use signposted visitor moorings wherever possible, and always moor to the towpath if you can. Double-check that you’re not a hazard to other boats or to people using the bank. Leave room for other boats to tie up too. On rivers, only use authorised sites - most riverbanks are private property.

Don’t moor:

In lock entrances or in lock flights
Near swing or lift bridges
Near weirs
Near sharp bends
By blind spots
In or opposite turning points
At junctions
To the bank on a tidal river - you might find yourself hanging from the ropes when the tide goes out!
In stretches marked out for an angling match
And try to stay 50 feet (15m) away from established angling spots

There's no mystery to using locks - just a series of step-by-step tasks. Know the procedure, take your time and you'll be on your way with no problem.

A lock is simply a chamber with gates at either end. By emptying or filling that chamber with water, your boat can move up or down onto a new section of the waterway.

Although there are many different kinds of locks, they all work on a similar principle. With the lock gates closed, you open sluices (the paddles) to let the water in or out. When the water level under your boat is the same as the level you're moving to, you simply move in or out of the lock.

Some locks you operate yourself and others are operated by lock-keepers. Check your particular waterway for details. Always obey specific lock
instructions and local information.

Special safety tips

Take your time - and keep an eye out for problems
Always have a competent person on board while the boat's in the lock
Keep your boat well away from the gates and cills
Boats tend to bang about when water flows in and out of a lock - stay alert
Watch out for slippery surfaces when you're pushing the gates open
Work out some clear signals so that the crew and skipper can communicate quickly - a sign that means "close all the paddles", for example

Working the paddle gear

Paddle gear can be either hydraulic or rack and pinion. On the rack and pinion type, remember to engage the safety catch before winding up the paddles. This stops the gears from slipping down. When you've finished winding the paddles up, check the safety catch is in position and then take off your windlass.

With one crew member at the helm and one at the paddles, you wind the paddle gear up and down using a windlass or lock key. You should always wind them bit-by-bit — and keep an eye on the effect of the moving water on your boat.
Always wind the paddles back down - if you let them drop, they could break. To release the safety catch, wind the paddle up a little further, take the strain with the windlass, then remove the safety catch and wind the paddle down the other way.

Special safety tips

Only use a windlass that fits the spindle snugly
Keep a firm grip and don't let go - if the safety catch slips, the windlass could fly off at high speed
Keep fingers, hair and clothing away from the gears
Always use the safety catch
Navigating unmanned locks

Going uphill

As you approach the lock, send one of your crew to check whether it's full of water or empty. If it's empty, they can open the gates and you can steer straight in. Check that the paddles on the far gate are closed before you do, though - see Working the paddle gear on the previous page.

If it's full, moor up at least 60 ft (18m) back from the lock to avoid being swept about by the strong currents when the lock's emptied.

Empty the lock by slowly raising the paddles on the gates nearest to you. Then, open those gates and steer in. Close the gates behind you and lower the paddles.

Open the paddles on the gate at the front of the boat a little at a time to fill the lock. Keep your boat steady using your engine or with front and back ropes looped around the bollards - but don't tie up. Take a look at Floating freely?

When it's full, open the gates and take your boat out. Lower the paddles - and close the gates behind - unless a boat coming towards you wants to use the lock.

If the gates don't open or close easily, wait till the water level's absolutely equal. If there's still a problem, close the gates and paddles, check for trapped debris and remove it with your boat-hook.

Most broad locks also have ground paddles alongside the gates.
In this sort of lock, you must use the ground paddles first to partly fill the lock. Wait till the gate paddles are under water before you open them, or you will swamp your boat. To stop your boat from banging about, loop ropes round the lockside bollards before you start to fill the lock.

This is what can happen if you open the gate paddles too soon

Going downhill

Check that the far gates and paddles are closed and then fill the lock - if it's not already full - by opening the paddles at the end nearest to you. When the lock's full, open the gate and steer in. Close the gates behind you, keeping the back of your boat well clear of the cill on the top gates - cills stick out by up to 5ft (1.5m) and you can only see them when the lock's emptying. Lower the paddles.
Open the paddles in front to empty the lock, using your engine or ropes to keep the boat as still as possible.

When the water levels are equal, open the bottom gates and take the boat out.

Close the gates and lower the paddles before you move on, unless a boat coming from the opposite direction wants to use the lock.

Sharing a lock - saving water

Always share a lock if you can. And, if the lock's set against you, check for boats coming from the other direction. The lock will be ready for them to use and it'll save unnecessary emptying and filling.

It's sometimes possible to get two short boats end-to-end in a narrow lock, but check that you both have enough room to avoid the cill and gates. The heavier boat should always go in first, so that the water flow doesn't pull it into the lighter boat.

In broad locks, boats should be kept to the side with ropes looped round the bollards. Open the two paddles equal amounts, at the same time - and slowly.

Floating freely?

As the water level rises or falls, keep a continual check on your boat.

Is your rudder caught on the cill?
Close the bottom gate paddles to stop the water falling further. Slowly open the top gate paddles to refill the lock. Check for damage

Is the front of your boat caught on the top gate?
Close the top gate paddles to stop the lock filling. Open the bottom gate paddles to allow the water level to fall

Is the side of your boat caught against the lock wall?
Refill the lock and check for damage

Are your ropes snarled or too tight to let your boat move down freely?
Slacken them off if you can. If not, refill the lock

If you're sharing the lock with another boat, is there a safe distance between you?
Use ropes looped round the bollards to keep you in position

If someone falls into the lock, act quickly. If there's no lock-keeper to take charge:

Close all paddles

Throw a lifeline or lifebuoy

Stop the engine and keep the boat still

If there's no ladder - or the person can't climb - you may need to fill the lock SLOWLY to bring them up to your level.
Manned locks

Many waterways have manned locks, operated by a lock-keeper. Always follow the lock-keeper's instructions. You can operate some of these yourself out-of-hours, but check local information for details.

On some waterways - the Thames, for example - you must switch your engine off in the lock, and use ropes to control your boat.

If the lock has traffic light signals, remember that amber means proceed with care, but can also mean a manned lock is on user-operation.

Guillotine locks

You'll find guillotine locks on the East Anglian waterways. They have steel or wooden pointing gates - also known as mitre doors - at one end, and vertical guillotine gates at the other end. Some are electrically-operated and others are wound up and down by hand.

When you've finished using the lock, always leave the pointing doors closed and the vertical gate raised, secured and locked, unless directed otherwise.

Use your fenders to stop your boat getting caught on the safety chains that run alongside the lock.

Gates open?

Go into the lock slowly and moor up. Make sure the guillotine gate, pointing doors and paddles (if there are any) are closed.

Depending on which way you're going, open the paddles in the pointing doors or lift the guillotine gate a few centimetres slowly.

If the water flows in or out of the lock too quickly, close the gate and start again.

The crew in charge of the mooring lines should keep the ropes taut as water levels change.

When the water levels are equal, open the pointing doors or guillotine gate fully - depending on which way you're headed.

Close the paddles in the doors before you leave.

Gates closed?

Moor up at the landing stage and check that all doors, gates and paddles are closed.

Fill the lock slowly. When the levels are equal, open the doors or gate fully, steer into the lock and follow the procedure above.

Staircase locks

Sometimes, you'll find two, three, four or even five locks joined in a staircase. That means the bottom gates of one lock are also the top gates of the next, and water from one lock fills the lock below. You need to prepare all the locks before you start through the staircase.

Never empty a lock unless the one below it is already empty. But bear in mind that locks should never be completely empty - the lowest water level should still be deep enough to float your boat. Some staircase locks have markers to show you the level. Once you've prepared the locks, make sure all the paddles are fully closed.

If the water level isn't right, you could get stuck on the cill between the locks. If you do, just make sure the paddles below the boat are closed and slowly let the water into the lock using the ground paddles only.

Stumped by the staircase?

If you're going uphill, the bottom lock should be empty and the rest should be full. If you're going downhill, the top lock should be full, the others should be empty.

You'll come across a whole range of bridges on your travels. Some are fixed and some need to be moved out of the way to let your boat pass. Get information on what sorts of bridge to expect on your journey from the navigation authority or by reading a local waterway guide.

Remember that many bridges have low headroom. Weather conditions upstream have an effect on river water levels - a three foot headroom today might reduce to one foot tomorrow.

Bridges can be narrow too, which means river water tends to speed up as you get nearer. This can draw your boat towards the bridge, so stay alert.

Swing and lift bridges

Well before you reach the bridge, land your crew with the windlass or key.

If it's a traffic bridge, check that the road's clear and close the warning barriers if there are any. Don't forget to open the barriers once the bridge is back in place.

Manual swing bridges

Let your crew off well before the bridge - it's easier then to get the boat lined up correctly. Unhook the retaining chain and give the bridge a good - but controlled - shove. You might need to slow the swing down to stop the bridge bouncing back across the canal.

When the boat's through, push the bridge firmly into place and put the retaining chain back on.

Manual lift bridges

Pull the chain hanging from the balance arm. When the bridge is open, sit an adult on the arm to keep it raised until the boat's clear.

Gently lower the bridge by the chain, taking care not to let it drop.

Mechanised bridges

Mechanised bridges are either opened using the windlass, or are powered and need a navigation authority facilities key. Always follow the instructions.

With some swing and lift bridges, you can't move the traffic barriers until you've unlocked the control box. And you can't move the barriers back again until the bridge is back in its original position.

Windlass-operated bridges need to be unlocked first, but you must make sure you lock them again before cars are allowed back over.

Some modern bridges use wedges to stop them bouncing when cars drive over. You should find instructions at the bridge on how to release them. Always make sure they're back in place, though, or traffic will damage the bridge mechanism.

Bridge trouble?

If a bridge breaks down, don't try to force it. Call the local navigation office for help. There should be a phone number on the bridge instructions. If not, call the local navigation authority office.

Safety tips

Don't try to take your boat through until the bridge is fully open
and secure (they can stick at the wrong moment)

Take care with clearance under lift and fixed bridges - keep everyone off the roof and the front of the boat - stay in the centre of the channel

Only use a windlass that fits the spindle. Keep a firm grip and don't let go - if the ratchet slips, the windlass could fly off at high speed

Watch out for slippery surfaces when you're pushing swing bridges

Tunnels can be narrow with only room for one-way traffic, or they can be wide enough for two boats to pass. Check for instructions, entry times or traffic lights at the tunnel entrance.

Switch on your headlight, navigation lights and some interior lights. Whoever's steering should also have a waterproof torch. If it's a one-way tunnel, make sure there's no boat inside. And if you have to wait your turn, stay well clear of the entrance.

It can be damp in there, so put on your waterproofs.

As you go in, sound one long blast on your horn. Now steer by looking at one side of the tunnel only and keep to a moderate speed. Move the tiller or wheel as little as possible - it's a common illusion to feel the boat's being pulled to the side. Watch out for the changing profile, though - tunnels are rarely straight.

Keep at least two minutes (at normal cruising speed) or about 30ft (160m) away from any boat in front of you. If it's two-way traffic, keep a look-out for oncoming boats and pass slowly on the right.

Special safety tips

Keep your crew and passengers inside the profile of the boat in tunnels and aqueducts

Make sure you have enough fuel to get you through

If you break down in a tunnel, switch off the engine

Don't smoke or use cookers and heaters. Turn off the gas except
pilot lights

Help the steerer by stopping inside lights from shining on the back of the boat

Now we've shown you the safe way to do all the main boating things, we'd like to say a bit more about accidents.

Tranquil waterways, beautiful scenery, fresh air. Boating on our canals and rivers is a real pleasure - and, most of the time, there's no safer way to travel.

Accidents and injuries are rare, but every year a few people do get hurt - usually through inexperience or not paying attention. By looking at the accidents people have had on boats over the past few years, we've found that they fit into a relatively small number of catergories - see the symbols at the front of the book. This part of the booklet tells you about these so that you can avoid the same misfortune.

Don't let small children move around the boat unsupervised. Always know where they are.

Wherever you are - home, work or on a waterway - the most common accidents are slips, trips and falls. But when you fall off a boat or from the waterside, those accidents can be more serious.

Apart from the risk of drowning, you could be dragged or fall into a moving propeller. You could hit your head, or be crushed between your boat and another object. There's also a slight risk of infection from the water itself.

Boats and watersides are littered with bollards, rings, ropes and holes. Surfaces can be uneven or slippery, particularly in wet weather or early morning dew. So you need to keep your eyes open - and slow down.

Many falls happen during mooring - simply because people aren't sure of the procedure.

What causes falls?

Trips over ropes, mooring stakes and so on - especially when left untidy

Walking on narrow decks on boats that tend to rock

Jumping off or stepping off in a dangerous place

Slipping on a wet deck

Moving about the boat or waterside at night

Too much to drink
Safety essentials

Watch out for collisions - and if you are going to bump, warn your crew and passengers

Always use the grab rail

Keep your boat tidy

Don't jump off the boat when mooring

Wear non-slip deck-shoes

Take extra care on towpaths at night. Always use a torch
Don't leave the helm when the engine's running. If someone falls into the water, they could be injured by a moving propeller. And don't leave the keys in the ignition unattended.

Should I wear a lifejacket?

Children and non-swimmers should wear lifejackets whenever they're on deck. And that applies to everyone if you're negotiating strong streams or currents or if the decks are slippery.

Of course, it's always safer to wear a lifejacket or buoyancy garment - but check conditions and use your judgement.

True stories
Eyes in the back of your head?

Eleven-year-old Sam was lucky to escape with a broken arm when he fell onto the deck of a boat as it passed through a lock.
While the rest of his family - relatively experienced holiday boaters - were busy with the 60ft narrowboat, Sam ran along the lockside, tripped over a bollard and fell over the edge. Luckily, the lock-keeper was on hand to rescue him.

Collisions - with other boats, banks, bridges or other structures - are another common cause of injury. The impact can lead to falls, both onto the deck and into the water. And for people working in the galley, there's a risk of scalds or burns.

What causes collisions?

Lack of boat-handling skill or experience

Taking your eyes off the waterway

Cruising too fast
Safety essentials

Make sure you know the size of your boat and the dimensions of the waterway you're cruising on

Check headroom for bridges. Remember bridge shapes vary and water levels rise

Watch out for cross-winds

Be ready for strong flows at locks, weirs and places where water is taken in or out of the waterway

Sound your horn as you approach blind bridges, bends and junctions

Look out for canoes and dinghies

Watch out for floating tree trunks and other debris

Learn the Rules of the Road
True stories
Blast it!

Neither skipper sounded the warning when a small cruiser and a family on a first-time boating holiday met at a blind bend.
The collision sent a sunbather flying from the deck of the hire boat. The quick-thinking helmsman stopped the propellers just in time, and the girl was rescued unharmed. An elderly woman on the cruiser wasn't so lucky - she'd been making tea in the galley and was badly scalded.

Waterborne diseases, including Weil's Disease (leptospirosis), are extremely rare, but it's sensible to take a few precautions.

If you've got any cuts or scratches, keep them covered. If you fall in, take a shower and treat cuts with antiseptic and a sterile dressing. Wash wet clothing before you wear it again.

If you develop flu-like symptoms within two weeks, see your doctor and mention that you fell in the water. Not all doctors will know to look for signs of Weil's Disease, so do suggest it as a possibility.

If your boat collides with something else, you don't want to be in the way. Don't put yourself between the boat and a bank, tunnel or bridge, or you could end up with crushed fingers or legs - or even more serious body injuries.

What causes accidents?

Using your hands or feet to stop a collision or fend off

Not appreciating the momentum or the size of your boat
Safety essentials

Keep your body out of the way

Keep within the boat - that means not having your legs dangling over the side, your hands over the edge or your head out of the side hatch

Keep off the roof when underway

Don't fend off with your arms, legs or a boat pole — let the fender take the impact

Make sure anyone in the front cockpit is on the look-out for possible collisions
True stories
Helping hand - broken ankle

A couple, invited along for a canal cruise by their neighbours, were eager to help. So, approaching a mooring, the husband leapt to the front of the boat with the mooring rope. Seeing the boat was about to hit the bank, he instinctively stuck out a foot to fend off. His pleasure trip ended with a broken ankle, crushed between the boat and the bank.

Boating can involve a lot of physical exercise. Some of the work is heavy and you'll also be using unfamiliar techniques and tools. Together, the two things can add up to strained backs and muscles, cuts or worse.

What causes operating injuries?

Overstretching yourself

Using tools or equipment incorrectly

Not paying attention to the job in hand
Safety essentials

Take things easy. Don't strain. Share the work

Let the fittest operate locks and bridges

Make sure you know how to use equipment properly

Watch out for worn paddle gear

Only use a boat-hook or pole when the boat's still

Keep fingers clear of ropes - sudden tension in the rope can trap fingers

Don't wrap ropes around any part of your body

Don't use ropes to stop the boat - use the engine
True stories
Tools that bite back

Take a lesson from this hire boat crew, coming across their first lock. One of the helpers left the windlass on the spindle and then let go. The ratchet slipped and spun the handle round, breaking her nose and teeth.

Rope tricks

Crushed fingers and rope burns were the painful end to a holiday for this crew member. While holding the mooring rope around a bollard,
a sudden tug from the boat pulled the rope - and his fingers - into the bollard. His fingers were trapped until the skipper brought the boat further in and the rope slackened off.

Boat fires and explosions are extremely rare - probably because most people take the same sensible precautions as they do at home. But there are a couple of extra risks to be aware of.

The bottled gas used for cookers, fridges and heaters is heavier than air and, if there's a leak, it'll lie in the bottom of the boat. There, it only takes a spark to ignite.

Petrol vapour is also heavier than air. If you smell petrol strongly, follow the gas leak drill - see Hey! I can smell gas on this page.

And lastly, you need to watch out for fumes from cooking and heating equipment or the engine building up in the boat. Carbon monoxide is extremely poisonous. Symptoms include headaches, tiredness, sickness and dizziness, and are often mistaken for flu.

What causes accidents?

Dangerous equipment

Poor ventilation

Not knowing how to refuel safely
Safety essentials

Boat-owners should get their equipment serviced and checked regularly
Switch off appliances when you're not using them

Keep ventilators open and free of obstructions

Learn how to refuel safely

Always use the bilge blower before you start the engine on a petrol-
engined boat

If you're leaving a solid fuel burner alight overnight, open a window to give you extra ventilation

Make sure you know where your fire extinguisher is - and how to use it
Safe re-fuelling of petrol-engined boats

Stop the engine

Put out all naked flames including pilot lights

Evacuate the boat

Petrol vapour is highly flammable. It's also heavy, particularly in warm weather. Think about where it might end up. Protect cabins and cockpits by closing doors and raising awnings

Avoid petrol spillage

Never decant petrol on board, in a lock or next to another boat

Re-fuel outboard tanks ashore, well away from the boat
True stories
Breathe easy!

A sunny autumn weekend? Perfect weather for a day's cruising. But when the night turned chilly, this boating couple blocked off the draughty ventilators and lit the gas central heating. When their friends came back from the pub, they found the couple unconscious from carbon monoxide poisoning. Had they stayed for a last drink, the result would have been far worse than severe headaches.

Hey! I can smell gas!

Turn off the gas isolation valve and open windows, hatches or doors to ventilate the area as much as possible. Turn the engine off, and put out naked flames, cookers, pilot lights and cigarettes. Evacuate the boat if possible.

Don't switch anything electrical on or off, including lights and the bilge pump, until you're sure the gas has dispersed.

Find the problem and get it put right before you turn the gas on again.

Fire!

Act quickly - fire spreads rapidly! Alert everyone on board to move to a safe location and evacuate if possible. Call the fire service if you can.

A fire blanket is designed for use on cooker fires and the fire extinguishers for other fires. Use these to help you escape or to fight a fire if you feel competent. Make sure the equipment is maintained in good condition and ready for use at all times.

If the fire's in the engine space, don't open the main access - the air will only feed the fire. Some boats have a fixed fire extinguisher in the engine space, which is activated automatically or with a manual control outside the compartment. Failing this, you might be able to discharge a fire extinguisher through a small opening in the engine access.

If someone's clothes are alight, quickly lie them face down so that the flames rise away from their face. Smother the flames with a blanket or wet jacket, laid away from their face.

BOAT FISHING

Fishing

The best boat fishing is between the end of May when the spring codling move inshore and the end of September when water temperatures start to drop and the sea conditions become unreliable.

In addition to codling, the three other main species for boat anglers are coalfish, ling and (in season) mackerel.

Drift fishing using worm, fish strip, baited artificials and jiggers are the best methods whilst the best of the sport is between two and four miles offshore near hard ground such as rocks and reefs.

Tackle losses can be heavy and anchoring is not advisable as there are strong tidal currents, especially between the mainland and the Farne Islands. It is always best to seek local advice from a charter boat or tackle shop before fishing in new areas.

Please remember it is your own responsibility to check any boat's licence and insurance cover, before you book. For a insurance super yacht ,a boat insurance agency or just insurance super yacht visit Boat Sure .

Anglers with their own boats can launch them, for a small charge, at Seahouses, Beadnell and Newbiggin.

Where can I buy the most affordable boat insurance ?

Boat Sure gives you most of the sites you would probably want to visit for the cheapest boat insurance .

Information on boat insurance :

Boat Sure is a website to help you find boat insurance .

Welcome to The Boaters’ Handbook

BOAT FISHING

Fishing

Information on boat insurance :

Boat Sure is a website to help you find boat insurance .

Welcome to The Boaters’ Handbook

BOAT FISHING Fishing

BOAT FISHING

Fishing